Naples, Italy
Naples is the city where North Italy meets the South. It is a kaleidoscope of extremes, lawless dominated by the infamous Camorra, fiercely Catholic and with a passionate love for life and food – the Napolitan cuisine. Just over 2 hours by train from Rome it is a good base to discover the Amalfi coast and explore the sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum.
Getting to and around Naples
The proximity of Naples to Rome makes it an attractive choice for your Italian trip which combined with the scenic Amalfi coast, Pompeii and mount Vesuvius will give you a rather unique range of experiences. Naples airport Capodichino is around 7 km from the city centre and there is a regular bus to Piazza Garibaldi from the airport which runs every 15 minutes.
The train from Rome takes 2 and a half hours arriving at Napoli Centrale which is located at the edge of the city. It is important to be aware of your belongings at this busy station. From here you can use the underground metropolitana to get to various parts of the city. City and suburban buses stop on Piazza Garibaldi but the best way to explore central Naples is on foot. Naples is a big and spread out city and taxis may be a good option if you wish to venture out beyond the city centre.
Naples Highlights
It is believed that Naples was established as early as the 9th century but evidently Greek settlers established a city called Neapolis (new city) in 750 BC. The city prospered under Greek and Roman times and it fell to the Normans in 1139. Later it was occupied by the Spanish for 300 years and was briefly fallen to the Austrians until the British took over. It was here Admiral Nelson had the famous affair with Lady Hamilton.
The old part of the city is the area between Piazza Garibaldi and Via Toledo which makes up the historical centre. Piazza Garibaldi is the transport hub of the city, very busy full of street hawkers and very cosmopolitan with a number of African restaurants, Moroccan groceries and lots of immigrants from Eastern European countries. West of Piazza Garibaldi you will discover the most characteristic quarter of Naples (centro storico) with the busy streets Via dei Tribunali and Via San Biagio dei Librai, full of old buildings displaying Naples character and hectic atmosphere. In Via Tribunali there is a small octagonal chapel the Cappella del Pio Monte della Misericorda containing paintings of Caravaggio and Giordano.
Close by is the Gothic Duomo which is dedicated to the city’s patron San Gennaro famous for the miracle of liquefaction of his blood. The Spaccanapoli quarter is one of the most characteristic ones in the heart of the old city. It has many picturesque streets and the church of San Gregorio Armeno with its sumptuous Baroque edifice and late 17th century frescoes by Luca Giordano. Other Naples highlights include the Museo Archeologico Nazionale which has a Farnese collection of antiques from Lazio and Campania and finds from the nearby Roman sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum. The Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte was the royal residence of the Bourbon King Charles III and today it houses a great collection of art with many important works by Campanian and international artists.
Mount Vesuvius, Herculaneum and Pompeii
The first eruption of Mount Vesuvius was in 79 AD and it buried the towns of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Since then there have been over 100 eruptions with the last one in 1944. Still active today the volcano can be reached by a bus which starts from Naples train station or you can hire a minivan taxi which charges under 10 euros per person and will wait to take you back to Naples. You need to allow around 2 hours for your walk to and from the volcano. The lower part of the volcano is very fertile and you will wind around slopes covered with vines and olive trees but as you ascent up to the crater the ground is stony and barren.
A visit to Herculaneum can be combined with climbing Mount Vesuvius and if you are interested in a detailed explanation you can engage a local guide at the site. The site has 2 main thoroughfares and walking along these you will come across various remains including the House of Argus, the Bath Complex many shops and the Palestra.
Pompeii can be reached from Naples by train in 30 minutes. Upon arrival you will be at the western entrance of the site. There are also many day trips available from Rome which visit Pompeii and the Amalfi coast. Pompeii was one of the most important commercial sites in ancient times. The Romans took it over from the Greeks in 200 BC and during this time it became a flourishing trading town. It was first destroyed by a severe earthquake in 63 AD and buried by the eruption of Vesuvius again in 79 AD. It is believed that most of the 20,000 inhabitants of the city had already left but the eruption “froze” the way of life in Pompeii. The excavations have since revealed a great deal about the ordinary life of Roman citizens.
You will need to allow a few hours to visit Pompeii as it is an extensive site. Some of the highlights which are marked and outlined on the site maps displayed at every entrance are the Forum, the House of the Tragic Poet, the Amphitheatre, the Palestra, the Villa dei Misteri and the House of Loreius Tiburtinus.
The Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi coast is famed to be the most spectacular coastline of Europe. Gifted with impressive views, especially between Salerno and Amalfi, cosmopolitan towns, and villas atop slopes with expansive views it attracts thousands of tourists throughout the year.
Sorrento is south of Pompeii and for most the first point of contact with the Amalfi coast. It is a nice resort with lots of hotels enjoying views across the coast. For a swim you will have to climb down to one of the little bays and share the limited space available on the rocky promenades with other keen tourists. It is a lively place with a good choice of restaurants, a small local museum and some old churches where in the summer you can enjoy an intimate open air concert.
Positano is a place not to be missed while on the Amalfi coast. A postcard image village with grand villas descending all the way down to the delightful beach. Local buses will drop you at the top of the village and you can either walk down or catch the little bus which drops you to the little square near Via Cristoforo Colombo. In the summer you can also catch the ferry from here to Capri.
Capri in the Bay of Naples has been long famous for its pristine waters and cliff bound scenery. Its natural landscape and remarkable beauty has attracted visitors especially after the discovery of the Blue Grotto in the early 19th century. Ferries and hydrofoils operate regularly from Naples and Sorrento to Capri docking at Marina Grande. Capri is the main town of the island crowded with cafes and souvenir shops. Anacapri and the famous Blue Grotto are the other 2 highlights which are mostly visited by the day trippers.
Ravello enjoys the best views of the Amalfi coast and it is set on one of the coast;s mountains some 335 metres high. Its location has inspired many writers and film makers and visitors come here to enjoy the expansive views, the village Duomo and some nice villas with wonderful gardens.
